2024 The Party Boat Ride

My father Emerson and his wife Ruth had flown out of Toronto to Newfoundland, and when my sister Wendy-Sue found that there was a stopover in Halifax, she suggested they stay in Nova Soctia for a week before heading back to Orillia Ontario, and hence I received an invitation to visit the new house in Coldbrook Nova Scotia for an overnight visit. 

Burnt Coat Nova Scotia

As it is a long way to go, I opted to take an even longer route and planned to visit Burnt Coat Provincial Park in Nova Scotia that I've been rather adept at passing by this gem in the past. 

I just needed an overnight bag and I was off and running, with a base layer on top and bottom as the air had a chill despite it being past 1000. The ride was fairly uneventful over the confederation bridge and onto the mainland, where I opted to leave NB 16 and skirt the traffic in favour of 955 that runs along the coast through Murray Corner New Brunswick, wit the aim of running straight and fast to Truro Nova Scotia without too much delay. 

I had toyed with the idea of running the Sunrise trail through Pugwash and into Tatamagouche where I'd pick up the highly entertaining NS 311 and shoot the rapids all the way into Truro, but fate had other plans, as there was a detour due to bridge construction that had me heading along interior of Nova Scotia on some loose gravel roads that were frankly more exciting that riding the pavement. The Versys shines on groomed gravel roads, and I dare say my pace was only slightly reduced as I shot away from the coast and towards Shinimicas Bridge, and from there I was dumped ouot onto NS 6 where I got as far as Port Howe before turning south to run on the NS 301 aka Kolbec road bound for Truro alongside the river Phillip. An entertaining romp, I can assure you. 

That ran me into Oxford NS where I needed a pit stop for fuel and for myself, and made the mistake of queuing up for some Tim Horton's that caught my fancy. I really wanted the coffee, but the long weekend line ups on a Saturday were longer that usual, and I waited an age before sitting down to a farmers wrap and small coffee. That was a very late breakfast or early lunch if you wish, and I found myself on the highway playing a bit of dodge and weave until I saw the other side of the  Salmon River, and the first good exit that I could take this side of the river that would take me into Maitland NS to follow the coast line of Chignecto Bay along the Glooscap Trail. 

All too soon I crossed the Shubenacadie River on NS 236. The rivers there are affected by the tide, and as it was near a high tide, I opted not to stop and take photos as I had better in the gallery... That is always my excuse. lol. The road was fun, and there are some very quick elevation changes here and there with blind corners for added excitement, and I revelled to be part of the bike, feeling the feedback from the suspension (Please sir, can we have an upgrade or at least a service? was their plantive cry, but I leaned further and rolled the throttle until their protests were drowned out by the sound of my fifteen year old exhaust. Fun indeed! 

Looking out towards Noel Bay
as seen from NS 215
The Glooscap Trail

This old building had be do a doubletake and a U-Turn. Rarely do you see such a large ediface, and I wondered to what use it had been put when it was built. Perhaps a hardware and general store? A feed store? 

Noel Nova Scotia

Follow the signs for Burntcoat Head Park and prepare yourself for a short walk downhill from the parking lot and down the stair case to the water front where the averate tide is 47.5 feet high!!! 

The average tide is 47.5 feet or 14.5 metres high

I like this shot so much I made it a profile picture.

My friend Mark thought he recognized the hat, and that sent me on a mission to find the first photo of me wearing it, and it was in 2014 when I was on a lobster boat working with my friend Danny off of Cape Bear Reef PEI. It turns out I get seasick. :)

It really is a beautiful local park, and I found it was run by the township and not a provincial park as I first thought. 

Just down the road a ways therre is a public beach overlooking Moose Cove. It's a pituresque spot, with lots of beach wrack to make things interesting. 

Moose Cove as seen from Burntcoat Road, Nova Scotia

Close by there is an old farmstead with some original out buildings that give you an idea of how long this land has been worked. The lighting was wrong, and didn't work out as well as I had intended as there is some lovely shingle detail to be seen on both structures. 

Back onto the Glooscap Trail, I opted to skip the Walton Harbour Lighthouse as I've visited it a couple of times, but I did stop on the bridge over the river Walton to get some photos. 
 

River Walton NS

The hardpack beach to the left is often covered in tents as I assume its a popular car camping stop along the trail. 

Tide is on it's way out at the River Walton NS

Just off the trail is a lovely little spot, Pembroke Beach just off on Pembroke Wharf Road. 

Pembroke Beach as seen from Pembroke Wharf Road NS

I think we are looking out across the Minas Basin at Blomidon Provincial Park & Campground where Caroline and I stayed on our tour of 2020, The Covid Diaries - Nova Scotia and New Brunswick

Blomidon as seen across the Minas Basin at Pembroke Beach Nova Scotia

It was such a beautiful spot that I took another selfie to put myself into the scenery. I got a bit self conscious about this one as a mini van of tourists pulled in and I was very close to blocking there access to the road, as it was a last minute thought of mine, just after I'd turned round to leave. I felt a bit sheepish but the driver assured me he had no trouble getting around me. Wave and smile. :)

That helmet needs a good wipe down

Pembroke Beach as seen from the Glooscap Trail NS 215

I was really drawn to this small chapel, and as it was tucked away from the road, it was one of those that you can photograph without a mass of telephone and electrical cables obscuring the front of it. Another one of those shots that I would have regretted not turning around for, so I opted to turn round and get it, and I'm happy I did as I quite enjoy being reminded of the area and how long it has been settled. It has clearly seen some better days, and can you imagine the fellowship of farmers and townsfolk who gathered together and pooled their resources and energy to erect this focus for the community? Just on a civil and social scale it is clearly a mark of properity and permanence. Similarly, somewhat sad to see it abandoned and derelict in need of repairs. Did the community fail, or just it's spirit? I wonder who the last pastor or deacon was and the good fight they clearly lost for membership and support. 

Cambridge Chapel
1891
Cambridge Nova Scotia

Cambridge Chapel, Erected 1891

What can I say but that the scenery along the Glooscap Trail is marvelous, and I found yet another reason to stop. 

Bass Brook flowing out into the Minas Basin,
as seen from NS 215 Bramber NS

Bass Brook

I did a "Starving Student" tour of  Nova Scotia, "2017 The Lighthouse Route" and I promised I would return to this beach and get some better photos of it. So here you are...  White Head Beach, but I found it was the site of a Gypsum mine, and it was then named "Upper Head" at one point, accessed off of NS 215 on Shipyard Road.  In fact, there is some fascinating information about the area mining here:
https://notyourgrandfathersmining.ca/cheverie

Upper Head, Chevrie Nova Scotia

Who is this guy?! 

White Head Cheverie Nova Scotia as seen from the beach off of Shipyard Road

The beach sees use as a campground as well, with Shipyard Road as the access route, but no toilets that I could see, so make provision if you are going to pitch. 

The tide was running out, and the banks of the river were now worth photographing, and in "edit" I get to look up the place names and add them to the photos, so in essence I'm reliving a part of the ride. It's a win win. 

Cogmagun River flowing into the Minas Basin
as seen from the Glooscap Trail NS 215

This and a couple of pumps outside is what your corner store used to look like. 

Centre Burlington Gas and Variety, Nova Scotia

I'm going to tell you now that Google Maps sucks for naming Blue Water. Instead, copy the latitude and longitude, and plug it into Open Street Maps, although for best results try edit mode and poke around with the pointer in the water. Sort of puddle jumping... :)

Kennetcook River
as seen from NS 215 the Glooscap Trail

I'd just stopped for gas so I really had no excuse to stop here as well, except to get some photos of this lovely piece of history. A Hudson, but I've no idea what year. 

Back on the road again, and this time I pulled over in Sweets Corner to capture this one. 

 

Saint Croix River
As seen from NS 215 The Glooscap Trail
Near Sweets Corner Nova Scotia

As the day wore on, I needed to make time to Coldbrook to hook up with my sister Wendy-Sue, Kirk, and my father Emerson and Ruth. I was leaving the Glooscap Trail and heading towards the highway when I got a cryptic message from Wendy that I couldn't decipher or respond to due to the poor cellular signal, so hopping off the Glooscap Trail and onto the highway and to give her a call to let her know I was only about 45 minutes from her place would probably be a good idea at this point. I'd have to stop further up the road, there was nothing here, but the slowest of 3G speeds. lol. 

Fundy Gypsum Company

It's a rabbit hole, for one minute I am researching the Fundy Gypsum Company, then learning of the Gypsum Queen, reported lost at sea due to enemy action in world war one off the coast of Ireland, "torpedoed" which turns out to be a lie, and the Canadian government that paid out $72,000 dollars to the captain owner of the vessel was reclaimed in a court action when it was discovered his story was a fabrication and it had sunk due to storm activity. Crazy! :)

Nova Scotia Gypsum minings largest consumer was the American people, and as the industry grew, the exports via tidewater shipping to the port of New York increased year to year, until the industry sump in the sixties. Tidewate is such a good transportation mechanism, that Disney World in Florida sits perched on Nova Scotia rock from Porcupine Mountain in Guysborough on the Canso Causeway to Capre Breton Island. Pretty cool! 

Sources: 
https://mcdadeheritagecentre.ca/fundy-gypsum-company-ltd/
https://notyourgrandfathersmining.ca/gypsum-queen

I think this contains too much quartz and was rejected
Just guessing...

My phone rang, and I answered it hear Wendy explaining that if I made my way to Aylesford Lake I would be in time for the boat ride, so I pocketed my phone and put the bike back into gear. 

Well, I was done with the NS 215 and the Glooscap Trail, and it was complete shock to be on a two and three lane highway again, playing dodge and weave to keep a steady pace along on a Friday afternoon of a long weekend. I wasn't the only one with a place to be. 

A shed with some character
English Mountain Road
Casey Corner, Kentville NS

I was off the highway onto NS 12, then a quick right then left and onto North River Road, and every rider knows that a river road is the place to be for fun and excitement. Not only was the road twisting nd turning through the thick Nova Scotia scrub, but the potholes would pop up out of nowhere and jump in front of the bike, and should you hit one, it would rattle your teeth loose! I had to slow down a bit, but was able to see the road surface fairly well and managed to avoid most of them. 

Horses on North River Road, Casey Corner NS

I managed to locate the cottage address that Wendy-Sue had sent to me, and as I pulled into the driveway, the neighbours two large dogs took offence, and followed me through the trees barking and expressing their general displeasure. By the time I had out my dog treats, a bag of beef liver that I used to treat Caroline's brother Andrew's dog Beau with, they had disappeared back home. 

I'm probably going to get this completely wrong, but here goes... Pramod and his wife Rini were tenants of Mr. & Mrs. L., who had invited them and their friends for a family outing and barbeque on their houseboat and at their lovely cottage on the shore of Lake Aylesford,  a manmade reservoir and hydro electric dam in the interior of Nova Scotia, so a freshwater lake, and that invitation had been extended to Wendy-Sue and Kirk, with their extended family as well, which joy of joys included me as well. 
 

Aylesford Lake Nova Scotia

 I call this the party boat, as no sooner did I board and take a seat then we cast off and the captain had us away from shore and reminding us that mutineers could walk the plank at the front of the vessel. :)
The boat made good time, and the kids enjoyed themselves while Rini and her friends started passing around dixie cups and spoons full of Carrot Halwa, which I found has been around for ages, with the recipe pre-dating Persia 600 CE (Common Era). I was told it's main ingredients were carrots. milk and sugar, and ate mine with relish as did we all. It was a lovely treat. 

The captain turned off the engine and ordered the anchor dropped, and to my surprise the Karaoke machine came out, and we encouraged to sing songs of faith and devotion. I managed to start a few of them, old classics that thankfully others remembered more of the words than I did. lol. It was a good time, and there were some lovely voices that took part in the sing-a-long. Wendy-Sue is going to have to work on her singing or bring an instrument, like the flute Mom & Dad bought for her years ago. Drum, spoons, we had it all! 

The two Windys
Wendy L. and Wendy-Sue D.  

Just sit right back and I'll tell you a tale, a tale of a fateful trip,  that started from this tropic port, aboard this tiny ship... Hahaha. 

Emerson and Ruth K. 

These two were the reason I was here, and I got to see where Wendy-Sue and Kirk had moved to after being voted off of the Island. 

The Party is almost over, or is it? 

Some of my earliest memories of hanging around boats with my father.
This was old home week for me.  

Love you dad! 

I thought we were going to pack up and head into Coldbrook for supper, but Pramod and his friends invited us to their BBQ as well, and when I found that they had tandoori chicken marinated in yoghurt and garam masala no one had to twist my arm, and I found a comfortable spot on the couch and watched the expert cook the chicken carefully in a few batches while Rini and friends put out the rest of the buffet meal. They treated my family and I as guests, serving us first, and I was self conscious of the honour, as I usually wait until everyone else has been fed. Years of serving troops their meals in the field had ingrained that into me. Lol. Hard to do when there is tandoori chicken on the menu. 

Tandoor chicken, vegetable biryani rice, and macaroni salad

The food was fantastic and the stories and laughter died for a time as everyone ate their fill until we had to turn away generous offers of more. 

The sun was setting as the kids finished up their swimming off of the small beach and dock in front of the cottage, and I was obsessed with taking photos of the setting sun. 

Wendy-Sue and Emerson
daughter to Dad, and big sister to me. 

It's cooling off, the kids are out and drying off before being bundled up. 

It was such a lovely experience, talking with our hostess Wendy and her husband. 

A couple of the lads took out the kayaks for a brief spin... 

 

I wish only that I'd moved further left to get a better silhouette, but I'm very happy with this photo. 

The day was done, the Nova Scotia air force was out and attacking, it was time to say fare thee well and gear up for the ride to Wendy's new home in Coldbrook, a short ride, but I'd be backtracking those potholes and riding in the dark down roads that might have deer and moose in store. Ask me why I get deer fear... 

The view of Coldbrook from English Mountain Road NS

Somewhere down there was my sister's new home, new enough not to be in my Garmin GPS, but Google Maps would tell me which way to turn from the safety of my pocket. I got to her front door but after a few missed turns right close to her house. They said they could hear me one street over going back and forth. lol. 

Day 2: Coldbrook NS to Borden-Carleton PE - Drive 204 mi, 3 hours, 31 minutes

Coldbrook NS to Borden-Carleton PE

Well, I spent the rest of the night catching up with family, the following morning out with Kirk and Dad as we were given a short tour of Wolfville and Kentville, then the new property where they hoped to build their next home, back up the hill not far from where I'd stopped for that photo. We enjoyed a late breakfast that Wendy and Ruth had made for us, and I got a chance to hug them both and wish them a safe flight home. 

This time the route back was going to be straight with one exception, the fastest route sends you down south east into Halifax and back north again, but I chose instead to take NS 14 to Truro, and it was wicked fun, and with light traffic easily passed on a Sunday noon. But all too soon I was out onto the highway again, head down and throttle lock set making best time back to the island to be there in time for supper. 

I made one stop for fuel while Nova Scotia, and as luck would have it, there was a Taco Bell right there, so after topping off I rang up Caroline and asked her what I should bring back for her daughter Erika, but she told me that Erika was already in Nova Scotia and had stopped at the Bell at least once already. "Fine then, what do YOU want?" And into the tank bag went two Crunch Wrap Supremes for the next two hours to home. 

Is the dog saying "Yo Quiero Taco Bell!"? 

Hahaha. Well. I had a few goodies to share with Caroline and we had a nice late supper while Hunter & Tazo each got a taste of a slightly limp piece of Taco Bell. :)

I told her that we need to use my sister's place as a bed and breakfast and ride the Glooscap Trail and the Lighthouse Route. Perhaps later this year, but for sure next year. I loved it all but for that Sunday highway slog, but it was for a good cause, and I wasn't trapped in a cage, and the weather was near perfect. 

Cheers! 

Glooscap Trail - Link to the Map